The Rolex Submariner has been a part of the Rolex catalog for well over 60 years. As expected, the famed dive watch has undergone plenty of design and mechanical enhancements over the past six decades, including the all-important timing bezel. Read on to discover all the different types of bezels of the Rolex Submariner.When Rolex debuted the Submariner in 1953, the stainless steel dive watch included a rotating bezel marked to 60 minutes to allow divers to track immersion times. The steel bezel turned both ways for simple timing adjusting, the edge of the bezel was knurled for easy gripping underwater, and the insert was fashioned from black aluminum.The printed 60-minute scale on the earlier versions included markings for every 5 minutes, alternating between batons and numerals. By the late 1950s, Rolex started to include hash marks for the first 15 minutes on the bezel followed by 5-minute markings.Around 1969, Rolex introduced the first yellow gold Submariner, the Submariner Date ref. 1680/8. Accordingly, the knurled rotating bezel was fashioned from 18k yellow gold. What’s more, the Rolex Submariner ref. 1680/8 now offered the choice of either a black or blue aluminum bezel insert and matching dial.
Lastly, both the 16613 and the 116613 are fitted with stainless steel and 18k yellow gold Oyster bracelets. Depending on the year released, the ref. 16613 has either solid or hollow end-links, either a stamped or link-style fold-out extension system, and either a gold-through or an all-steel clasp. Collectors have different preferences on 16613 bracelet styles, making it a fun watch to collect.The ref. 116613 offers a more substantial hold on the wrist than its 5-digit predecessor and features solid gold center links, solid end-links, and a machined Oysterlock clasp with an innovative Glidelock extension system. The solid construction of the bracelet balances the Super Case nicely on the wrist for a supremely comfortable hold, even over wetsuits.While the ref. 116613 is noticeably more modern in appearance, it still boasts many similarities to the ref. 16613 in the form of a versatile two-tone finish, similar dial and bezel color options, the same water-resistance of up to 1,000 feet (300 meters), and an Oyster bracelet that wears comfortably and allows for tool-free adjustment over wetsuits. When collecting, it ultimately comes down to preference; do you prefer a classic or a contemporary dive watch?The Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea is the most robust and over-engineered dive watch in Rolex’s current lineup. While the regular Sea-Dweller is water-resistant to an insane depth of 4,000 feet, the Deepsea has an absolutely abyssal depth rating of 12,800 feet, which is more than 100 times further below the surface of the ocean than any human could physically survive.Although the case of the standard Rolex Sea-Dweller is not all that different from that of a Submariner, the Deepsea has a re-designed case architecture that allows it to stand up to the crushing pressures found at 12,800 feet below sea-level. As a result of its more rugged and highly specialized build, the Deepsea is among the largest Rolex watches currently in production, with a case diameter of 44mm, and an overall thickness of just under 18mm.
All good things must come to an end, and it is as true at Rolex as anywhere else. Over the years, certain pieces have disappeared from the portfolio, either replaced with an updated version or else retired completely. Rolex actually seems to make a habit of discontinuing many of their references with little or no warning, and for reasons only they understand. In some instances, the withdrawn watches are real fan favorites, and it leaves potential customers with just one option to get hold of them.Below, we take a look at five of Rolex’s most-loved discontinued models that are now only available on the pre-owned market.Rolex has a history of marking the key birthdays of a number of its icons with some kind of out-of-the-ordinary celebration, and in 2003, the Rolex Submariner celebrated its 50th anniversary. The world’s most famous luxury dive watch marked its half-century in style with the release of the ref. 16610LV, not only the first Submariner to be fitted with a black Maxi dial, but also the first to have a green bezel.Major departure that it was for the model, it became something of an opinion splitter. There had been variations on the traditional black bezeled pieces before – blue versions (although only on gold and two-tone pieces) being the most common; however, the emerald surround on this anniversary edition led to it picking up a nickname from both the ‘for’ and ‘against’ camps. Those who loved the new colorway called it the Kermit; those less keen christened it the Vomit Sub.
Although the Yacht-Master is offered in a range of metals, the Rolesium (Rolex’s term for combining stainless steel and platinum on one watch) models are some of the best-looking options. While the Rolesium Yacht-Master is mostly monochromatic thanks to the similar hues of steel and platinum, the watch offers great texture contrasts thanks to the sandblasted platinum bezel dotted with shiny raised numerals contrasting with the mix of brushed and polished 904L stainless steel on the case and bracelet. You can go bigger with Yacht-Master 40 or smaller with the Yacht-Master 37, both of which are offered with dark rhodium dials that come alive with pops of turquoise that are as vibrant as the Caribbean Sea this time of year.If your tastes lean more towards the elegant and refined, then the Rolex Cellini Dual Time is your must-have travel watch. The recently refreshed Cellini line by Rolex celebrates watchmaking traditions of yesteryear and the Dual Time models are beautiful interpretations. From the intricate guilloché dials punctuated with slender indices and hands to the delicate fluting of the solid gold 39mm case and winding crown, every detail on the Cellini Dual Time is crafted to impeccable standards. The second time zone is straightforward to read via the 12-hour subsidiary dial above 6 o’clock, complete with an AM/PM indicator to stay on top of home time. Selecting the right Dual Time colorway to complement your wardrobe is easy, as the model is offered in a variety of configurations including white or Everose gold cases, black, silver, or brown dials, and black or brown leather straps. No matter if you’re looking for something sporty or elegant, complex or simple, colorful or muted, there are plenty of fantastic Rolex watches for women who travel.The Datejust, on the other hand, offers a dizzying array of choices from extra small to extra large cases, smooth to fluted bezels, Oyster to Jubilee bracelets, steel to two-tone, not to mention the infinite Datejust dial options. Plus, the Lady-Datejust watches even offer full gold and/or platinum models with President bracelets and gem-set bezels. Naturally, because of the smaller case size and limited style options, the Date is generally priced lower than the Datejust.The gold Submariner 1680 models were rated to a water-resistance rating of 200 meters and ran on Caliber 1575 movements. Rolex’s first Submariner gold watch was in production for a decade until 1979 when it was replaced with the subsequent Submariner ref. 16808.
