Today there is quite a high premium on original vintage pieces simply because they’re extremely rare and becoming increasingly harder to find. Decades ago, when people bought luxury watches like Rolex for example, it was perfectly normal for them to get the watch serviced, polished, or have parts replaced if you scratched or dented them up. The problem is that while they were done by the company with authentic later-era parts, they still weren’t original parts or features of the watch. Since this was such a common practice, today it’s really special – and highly valuable – if a vintage watch is totally original.When posed with the question of which watch to buy and when, every industry “expert” probably begins their answer with some variation of the same caveat: Buy for love, not for money. Watch collecting is a wild and unpredictable hobby. Auction prices for classic models have been known to hit eight figures (and then some), but most of the Rolex watches out there depreciate the moment you strap them on your wrist.I have a young friend who is ready to buy his first luxury watch. He’s been thinking about it for weeks (good boy), but every few days he calls me (bad boy) and labors the same point: He wants a watch that is an investment (even worse boy). There exists in modern watch collecting a problem: collectibility is now treated as a selling point. But the problem with everybody and their dogs knowing that something is collectible is that everybody and their dogs are quite likely to collect it.The most expensive wristwatch ever sold was the Rolex Daytona worn by Paul Newman himself. It fetched $17. million at a 2017 auction. That’s a pretty good price for a watch that was so unpopular when it was initially launched that it lingered on dealers’ shelves with relatively few actually making their way onto customers’ wrists. One of those wrists happened to be Paul Newman, who had reputedly been bought the watch by his wife, Joanne Woodward. And it isn’t that she made a sound investment, but rather her purchase created an investment piece by her gifting it to her stratospherically famous husband.
The earliest movement used in the Rolex Explorer II was the Caliber 1575, but over the years it was replaced with more technically advanced movements to help this watch reach its full adventure potential. The first big upgrade was the Cal. 3085 which allowed the 24-hour hand to be adjusted independently from the 12-hour hand. This meant the Explorer II no longer just indicated day and night hours, but could also be used to track a second time zone – turning it into a GMT watch. Then came the Cal. 3185 which was improved upon more with a Glucydur balance wheel that is not only paramagnetic but was resilient in extreme temperatures. The 3186 came next with a blue Parachrom hairspring that is anti-magnetic and shock resistant for even better durability. Finally, we have the modern-day Cal. 3187 which features all the upgrades this watch has gained over the years – from the GMT functionality to the blue Parachrom hairspring. It’s also notable for its high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, 31 jewels, -2/+2 seconds per day accuracy and 48-hour power reserve.The Submariner has a much longer history, so we’re going to start with the automatic Caliber 3135, which, while upgraded over the years, has been used in all date-displaying Submariner watches since 1988. While the aesthetics of the Submariner can vary, the Cal. 3135 has remained a trusted source of power for this beloved timepiece because of its sheer reliability. Today, the upgraded Cal. 3135 movement is COSC certified, outfitted with the anti-magnetic and ultra shock-resistant blue Parachrom hairspring, and boasts an impressive 48-hour power reserve just like the Explorer II.
This replica with a big white dial,42.3mm, it is easy to see time having this design, and collocates with blue hand, it can up its charming glamour and be more attractive at the same time. There are some details also reveal the symbolic design of Portuguese collection fully. For example, its dedicated minute ring is liked track, the relief Arabic numerals, the dedicated leaf hand. What’s more, combined with white dial and blue hand, it is really more vivid as a whole with this detail. Almost all these details are designed for gentlemen specially.
About this two tone Submariner 116613LN, there are basically four factories that are making it. BP, GM, AR and Noob. Among four of them, BP is the factory makes the cheapest one. GM is a new factory, I do not know their quality. So, the last two factories AR and Noob are worth your consideration. Based on the V1 edition, this time AR factory update the bezel and dial, the thickness of yellow gold coating on case and bracelet is also improved. First, the 18K yellow gold coating, which the factory claims, is updated to be 8 mils thick. Second, the black ceramic bezel insert is also updated, the golden markers on the bezel are improved to have the same engraving depth. Thrid, about dial improvement, the golden edge of hour markers is narrowed, while the central lume part is wider, so there will be more lume coating on each hour marker to guarantee stronger and longer lume light in dark conditions.So, instead of spending $50 USD more on the 116613LN from Noob, it is better to choose this one from AR factory.I love vintage watches very much. Especially Rolex and Panerai are my most favorite.This generation’s Paul Newman Daytonas are currently flying under the radar. Yes, the Rolex GMT-Master II has already doubled in value, and is likely going to appreciate further due to Rolex carefully managing the supply of that model to the ravenous public, but only by 200%, 300%, 500%. Now, that’s not too bad at all, but the really crazy money is likely hiding somewhere in the far corner of the industry and we won’t know what it is until it’s too late to rush out, cash in hand, and “collect” it.So what should we do in the meantime? I told my little friend, desperate to see a return on his money that he should be patient. He should wait to fall in love. He should truly get to know himself before he pulls the trigger. And then, when he’s good and ready, he should buy a Rolex anyway.
The first ceramic bezel Submariner appeared in 2009 with the introduction of the steel and gold Rolex reference 116613. A stunning blend of classic and modern dive watch design, the ref. 116613 has since become a highly sought-after dive watch, both at retail and on the pre-owned Rolex market. Other metal variations of the ceramic (aka “Cerachrom”) bezel Submariner would later follow. However, none is as intriguing as the Rolex Submariner two-tone example.The Rolex Submariner was introduced to the market in the early 1950s and was the first timepiece in the brand’s catalog to offer water resistance up to 100 meters. This depth rating would eventually be increased to up to 300 meters, where it remains for the modern versions of the Submariner that are sold today. Other notable upgrades made to the line over the past six decades include improved materials (904L Oystersteel), longer-lasting lume (Chromalight), higher-beat Caliebr 3135 perpetual movements, tougher scratch-resistant sapphire crystals, and unidirectional rotating timing bezels.The Submariner was first offered in stainless steel, then in yellow gold. The first two-tone Submariner wasn’t released until 1984, with the reference 16803. This take on Rolex’s famous professional diver introduced the line to a brand new level of collectors who sought a gold Rolex but didn’t have the budget for an all-gold timepiece. Fast forward to 2009 with the release of this article’s featured ref. 116613, a completely redesigned dive watch with an upgraded bracelet and case, a redesigned bezel fitted with a ceramic insert, and a larger display on the dial.The Rolex Submariner is a dive watch legend. From its many appearances in the James Bond franchise to gracing the wrists of numerous A-list celebrities, the Submariner has become one of the most recognizable and coveted luxury watches in the world. The line is varied and offers options in either an all Oystersteel (904L stainless steel), Rolesor (two-tone steel and gold), or solid 18k gold. Today, we will compare two of the most iconic two-tone Rolex Submariner references – the Rolex 16613 and Rolex 116613.
