Rolex is a true pioneer in watchmaking technology. Among their most significant inventions is the Submariner, which was the first watch ever to offer water-resistance of up to 100 meters. The now-iconic Rolex Two-Tone Submariner was the inspiration behind the flourishing dive watch market as we know it, and almost every dive watch in existence today was in some way influenced by the Rolex Submariner. While it was developed for use while underwater, the Submariner has since become a coveted timepiece among collectors of all professions. The line is varied and offers a feature set to suit almost any wrist. However, today we will take a closer look at an earlier model of their Rolesor two-tone steel and gold Submariner ( Rolex Submariner two-tone ). The Rolex 16613 Two-Tone Submariner.The Rolex Submariner was developed in 1953 and made its official debut a year later at Basel Watch Fair 1954. As previously mentioned, the collection was the first to offer resistance to depths of up to 100 meters, which would then evolve into 200 meters, before increasing once again to its current and impressive 300-meter depth rating. In true Rolex fashion, the Submariner was carefully refined over the years to include a safer unidirectional bezel, improved materials, and a higher-beat movement.The original model was presented in stainless steel with an all-gold variation following in the late 1960s and a two-tone option coming to market in 1984 via the ref. 16803. The ref. 16613 was released a few years later in 1988 and enjoyed a long production run before being discontinued and replaced in 2009 with the current Cerachrom ceramic bezel 6-digit ref. 116613, marking the end of the aluminum bezel Rolex Submariner two-tone watches.
The earliest movement used in the Rolex Explorer II was the Caliber 1575, but over the years it was replaced with more technically advanced movements to help this watch reach its full adventure potential. The first big upgrade was the Cal. 3085 which allowed the 24-hour hand to be adjusted independently from the 12-hour hand. This meant the Explorer II no longer just indicated day and night hours, but could also be used to track a second time zone – turning it into a GMT watch. Then came the Cal. 3185 which was improved upon more with a Glucydur balance wheel that is not only paramagnetic but was resilient in extreme temperatures. The 3186 came next with a blue Parachrom hairspring that is anti-magnetic and shock resistant for even better durability. Finally, we have the modern-day Cal. 3187 which features all the upgrades this watch has gained over the years – from the GMT functionality to the blue Parachrom hairspring. It’s also notable for its high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, 31 jewels, -2/+2 seconds per day accuracy and 48-hour power reserve.The Submariner has a much longer history, so we’re going to start with the automatic Caliber 3135, which, while upgraded over the years, has been used in all date-displaying Submariner watches since 1988. While the aesthetics of the Submariner can vary, the Cal. 3135 has remained a trusted source of power for this beloved timepiece because of its sheer reliability. Today, the upgraded Cal. 3135 movement is COSC certified, outfitted with the anti-magnetic and ultra shock-resistant blue Parachrom hairspring, and boasts an impressive 48-hour power reserve just like the Explorer II.
