Looks-wise, the watch that comes the closest to an all-steel model is now the ref. 116509, which is cast in solid 18k white gold and has the price tag to prove it.That means a delve into the archives is the only avenue still open should you want one, and it is the previous generation that is proving the most affordable. The ‘Zenith’ Daytona ref. 16520, powered by the fabled El Primero, is still the gateway into steel Cosmograph Daytona ownership.Of course, the word ‘affordable’ is all relative. Prices start at around the $20,000 mark, which is a hefty slice of anyone’s money. Yet beyond being one of the most handsome and capable models ever made, any Rolex Daytona represents perhaps the surest investments watch collecting has to offer.It’s a tough call, but the starkly austere Explorer might well be the watch that has changed the least (visually) over its 70-year run. That is even for a manufacture that updates aesthetics at the glacial pace that Rolex does. Every reference, from the prototype Pre-Explorer ref. 6150 from 1952 up to the last of the ref. 114270s in 2010, have been simple three handers, with the beautifully legible white on black 3/6/9 dials, housed in a 36mm case.Then along came the ref. 214270, identical in the detailing but the first example to grow beyond the dimensions in 58-years, measuring 39mm. It increased in size for the same reason as the Datejust – fashions demanded it – but unlike that watch, it became the only option available.That is no bad thing. The Explorer is perhaps the last of the true tool watches in the Rolex catalog. There is nothing about any iteration of the watch that is designed to look flashy or draw attention to itself, and a few extra millimeters doesn’t change that. The new Explorer is basically the old Explorer, and whichever you choose will come down to whether your wrist size suits one or the other.Its strength has always been in its simplicity, and it remains one of the best value for money prospects on the pre-owned Rolex market. $5,000-$6,000 is the buy-in point for a well set up example of the ref. 114270 or, if you fancy going the real vintage route, the celebrated ref. 1016 (personal timepiece of James Bond author Ian Fleming) starts at a little over twice that. Tough, elegant and perfectly built, the Explorer has always stayed true to Rolex’s roots.
If you have a vintage Rolex Datejust manufactured prior to the introduction of Caliber 3035, then your particular model is a non-quickset Datejust. To set the date and time on a Non-Quickset Rolex Datejust, follow these steps:Unscrew the winding crown by turning it counterclockwise until it releases from the case.Turn the crown clockwise around 25 times to manually wind the watch (it’s always a good idea to hand-wind the watch while setting it even if it is an automatic movement).Pull the crown out to the last notch.Rotate the crown to advance the timekeeping hands. Keep turning until the correct date appears in the date window. When the correct date appears, you are now in AM hours; now set the time accordingly taking into consideration if it is currently AM or PM.Push the crown all the way back in and screw it down to the case.To set the date and time on a Quickset Rolex Datejust, follow these steps:Unscrew the winding crown by turning it counterclockwise until it releases from the case Turn the crown clockwise around 25 times to manually wind the watch (it’s always a good idea to hand-wind the watch while setting it even if it is an automatic)Pull the crown out one notch to set the date (the timekeeping hands will continue to run in this position).Rotate the crown to adjust the date. We recommend setting the date to the day before today.Pull the crown out to the last notch to set the time. Rotate the crown to move the hands past midnight so that today’s date appears in the window. You are now in AM hours; now set the time accordingly taking into consideration if it is currently AM or PMPush the crown all the way back in and screw it down to the case.Always remember to keep the winding crown on your Rolex watch screwed down onto the case if you not adjusting the time and date to protect the watch from moisture and dust. Also, never unscrew the crown if you are in or around.
